GRAND STAIRCASE AND THE ESCALANTE FRONTIER
Bryce Canyon, Rim Views, and Ruby’s Inn
Leaving Highway 89, turn east onto Utah Highway 12. Be sure to stop at the Red Canyon Visitor Center, where hoodoos rise beside the road and signal the transition into the broader canyon country of southern Utah. Just beyond Red Canyon, a short stop at Mossy Cave offers an easy 0.8 mile round trip walk to a small waterfall, hoodoos, and a cool grotto tucked into the red rock cliffs.
Near Panguitch, Bryce Wildlife Adventure features one of the largest private wildlife collections in the region, with hundreds of animals from around the world displayed in detailed habitat exhibits, making it an interesting optional stop before continuing along Scenic Highway 12.
Turn right onto Utah Highway 63 toward Bryce Canyon National Park and arrive in time for the Rim, where the light is often the main event. Spend the morning moving between viewpoints with short walks before visiting Ruby’s Inn, a practical and historic base for supplies, orientation, and local services.
Bryce Canyon National Park was named after Mormon settler Ebenezer Bryce, who helped establish the nearby community of Tropic in the late nineteenth century and once famously described the maze of hoodoos behind his home as “a hell of a place to lose a cow.”
In the afternoon, hike the Queens Garden Trail, a 1.8 mile round trip route and one of the most approachable ways to descend among Bryce Canyon’s towering hoodoos without committing to a longer hike. Stay overnight near Bryce to keep the pace relaxed.
More Adventures in Bryce Canyon
Make today the immersive hoodoo day and hike the Peekaboo Loop Trail, a more challenging 5.5 mile loop that winds deep through Bryce Canyon’s amphitheater, weaving among towering formations and offering dramatic views from below the rim.
Reserve time to return to the Rim later in the day, when shifting light and shadows transform the canyon and the overlooks feel less hurried. A second night near Bryce allows you to experience the park beyond the typical quick visit and to enjoy the landscape during quieter hours.
For dinner after a day exploring Bryce Canyon, consider Stone Hearth Grille in nearby Tropic, a well regarded restaurant known for its canyon views and refined Western cuisine
Kodachrome Basin and Escalante
Continue east on Utah Highway 12 and visit Kodachrome Basin State Park, a landscape of striking sandstone spires rising from a quiet desert basin. Short trails such as Angel’s Palace Trail, a 1.5 mile round trip hike, offer sweeping views across the park and are an excellent way to explore the area without committing to a longer trek.
Utah State Route 12, the road connecting Bryce Canyon to Escalante and beyond, is one of only a handful of highways in the United States designated an All American Road. This distinction recognizes its extraordinary scenery as it travels through the Grand Staircase region and the canyonlands surrounding Escalante.
Continue along Highway 12 toward Escalante and settle in for the evening.
Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument and Devil’s Garden
Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument is vast, remote, and unforgettable when approached with time and patience. This portion of Scenic Highway 12 reveals expansive slickrock terrain, dramatic cliffs, and wide desert horizons.
If your vehicle is capable of handling a graded dirt road, visit Devil’s Garden, a unique collection of hoodoos, arches, and sculpted sandstone formations located a short distance north of Highway 12 along Hole-in-the-Rock Road.
A well known stop in Escalante is Hell’s Backbone Grill, a nationally recognized restaurant located along Utah Highway 12 that serves seasonal farm to table cuisine sourced from its own organic garden and nearby ranches.
Grand Staircase Escalante for the Adventurous
This day focuses on one of the region’s most famous slot canyon challenges, the Peekaboo and Spooky Gulch loop. This 6.4 mile route winds through narrow sandstone corridors with tight passages, short climbs, and twisting canyon walls that make for a memorable and physically engaging hike.
Start early, watch weather conditions closely, and treat the route with respect, as flash floods can occur during stormy weather. Return to Escalante for the night if you decide to embark on this adventure.
Optional Grand Staircase Escalante 4×4 Day
Travelers with a four wheel drive vehicle may choose to spend an additional day exploring deeper into Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument. Routes such as Hole-in-the-Rock Road, Cottonwood Canyon Road, or Smoky Mountain Road lead into remote desert landscapes with sweeping views, hidden canyons, and remarkable solitude.
Grand Staircase Escalante rewards those who slow down and allow the landscape to unfold gradually, with room for photography and long quiet moments in one of the most remote regions of the Colorado Plateau.
Lower Calf Creek Falls
As you leave the Escalante area, hike to Lower Calf Creek Falls, a 6.2 mile round trip trail that follows a sandy canyon corridor to a beautiful waterfall cascading into a cool desert pool.
This canyon has been used by people for thousands of years, and hikers along the trail can still see ancient pictographs and Fremont culture granaries tucked high into the cliffs, reminders that this landscape supported human life long before modern roads reached the region.
As Highway 12 climbs onto Boulder Mountain, the environment shifts dramatically from desert canyon country into the high alpine forests of Fishlake National Forest. Scenic pullouts such as Larb Hollow Overlook reveal sweeping views back toward the cliffs and domes of Capitol Reef far below.
Continue east as the road descends toward Utah Highway 24, then travel to the town of Torrey and settle in near Capitol Reef National Park for the evening.
A memorable place to dine in Torrey is Rim Rock Restaurant, a longtime local favorite perched along Highway 24 and known for sweeping views of the surrounding red cliffs while serving hearty Western style dishes such as trout, ribs, and hand cut steaks.
Leave No Trace
Please respect the natural environment by following Leave No Trace principles.
